Skip to main content

Day 169 - JMT Rae Lakes to Glen Pass

The Fin, a rock spire surrounding Rae Lakes, could be seen clearly behind Dollar Lake, as we posed for a picture and almost fell in.  We ran into Alex and Kathleen on the other side of this lake.  They had barely slept--as the cool breeze and damp air off the lake froze their sleeping bags and bodies.  So note to hikers-- don't camp by lakes if it's cold.

Craggy peaks littered the scenery surrounding Rae Lakes.  We stopped for a long, late morning break.  I lent Bob my warm, comfy sleep system and encouraged him to take a nap, which he did.  I ate peanut butter-dipped tortillas and journaled at a lakeside overlook.  Here is what I wrote that day:

"If the High Sierra is an orchestra--the mountains are the wind section--creating stories with peaks and valleys, color with shapely crags over blue waters, drama with geologic rock formations, and drawing you to the climactic edge with ridgewalks and high pass summits.  The trees, shrubs, grasses and animals--deer, chipmunk, squirrels, marmots, bears, are the horn section of the orchestra de High Sierra-- setting the tone and rhythm of life, creating surprises that delight, living in extreme places like high cliffs or low islands, all adding humor and fun to this dramatic song.  And we, Bob and Lee, backpackers, are both audience and conductor."

Awaking after his nap, Bob led the way into the lake, for a necessary swim in deep, cold waters.  I don't know what expression we were expressing in this picture, but it captures the wonder on this moment fully.

The smoke was encroaching on our perfect setting, creating a Mordor-esque mountain horizon beyond the water.  We decided to push on.  The trail curved around Rae Lakes masterfully, exposing new views constantly while we treaded along the edge of the two lakes, on our way to Glen Pass.

Painted Lady jutted towards the sky as we hiked on to Glen.  The path led to a false summit that had us guessing where to go. We eventually saw black dots--people-- on a shaley cliff above. We climbed on.  

We made the pass and then continued along the ridge amid densely gathering smoke.

The smoke was so thick we had to don our cowboy bandannas once again. The nearby mountains couldn't be seen at all.  The Rough Fire was directly west of us now and gaining size.     

The Sun, The Smoke. We saw the burning red evening sun setting through the dense smoke, a sight we had been warned about on day 2. Our lungs hurt as we hiked steadily down and then up towards Forrester Pass. We camped at a forest clearing, made dinner and tried not to breath too much. Hopefully the smoke would clear in the morning so we could make the 3000 foot climb to Forrester. We heard that the skies were clear after Forrester. I hope so. You can't hike many days in this...

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 170 - JMT Forrester Pass

The mountains had a surreal glow this morning as we climbed up towards the 13,200 foot high Forrester Pass.  One of the wonderful things about the mountains is that they change appearance as the sun changes height, creating a movie-like experience as you walk. I felt so free and happy this morning--just in love with this light.  After sixty minutes of walking, we stopped in the first sunny spot we could find to thaw out and rest. Another hiker came bustling up the trail behind us and stopped at the sunspot to shed a layer of clothing. Sly was a Canadian hiker, just turned 40, who seemed happy to see us. We struck up a conversation about travels and when we pushed off Sly asked if he could join us. We said yes of course. We hiked quickly up the trail, reaching a high plateau with epic alpine views. Selfie time! We skirted around a high alpine lake and then went up a ridge line ever further higher. We were at 12,000+ feet now and the world began to look small y...

Day 62 - Colorado National Monument

Established as a national monument early in 1911, Colorado NM is known for its high canyon "rim road" and sandstone spires of Monument Canyon.  The canyons of west Colorado are pretty--as they have more green trees and shrubs than the more famous Utah canyons. This gives them a more alive feeling, although the sandstone spires were formed many thousands of years ago by erosion.  Rim Rock road curves up the the top of the canyon cliff, goes through several round tunnels and is lined with scenic viewpoints. The best views were in he Monument Canyon section, and included in sequence, the Coke Ovens, The Kissing Couple (behind my head), and the most famous of all: Independence Monument, the tall spire in pic 3 and viewed from the side in pic 4.  The original promoter and caretaker of the park, John Otto, was the first person to climb Independence Monument and now it's a climbing right of passage. Every July 4 climbers ascend and mount an American flag at the summit. Fun! ...

Day 82 - Yellowstone to Montana

My alarm sounded at 5:30am, a time early enough for me to arise before someone found me secretly camping. The geyser prediction said Grand at 6:15am so I set out toward it.  I ran into geyser gazer Jim there and he said it likely erupted at 4:30-- missed it. Early morning eruptions are hard to predict as someone needed to have seen the previous overnight eruption in order to make a prediction. I walked on toward Artemesia, an unpredictable geyser at the far corner of the basin. I had seen her erupt from a mile away and wanted a closer inspection. The early morning setting was momentous, yet I didn't see a geyser erupt up close until Grand at 10:30.  Then Sawmill erupted with its twirling thirty foot action (pic).   The only remaining geyser left to experience on my mental list was Beehive up close. With a predicted window of 810 to 1210, I arrived at 1030 and waited until 1pm, before giving up. The sun was hot, I had read the geyser book cover to cover, and while seeing e...