Skip to main content

Day 169 - JMT Rae Lakes to Glen Pass

The Fin, a rock spire surrounding Rae Lakes, could be seen clearly behind Dollar Lake, as we posed for a picture and almost fell in.  We ran into Alex and Kathleen on the other side of this lake.  They had barely slept--as the cool breeze and damp air off the lake froze their sleeping bags and bodies.  So note to hikers-- don't camp by lakes if it's cold.

Craggy peaks littered the scenery surrounding Rae Lakes.  We stopped for a long, late morning break.  I lent Bob my warm, comfy sleep system and encouraged him to take a nap, which he did.  I ate peanut butter-dipped tortillas and journaled at a lakeside overlook.  Here is what I wrote that day:

"If the High Sierra is an orchestra--the mountains are the wind section--creating stories with peaks and valleys, color with shapely crags over blue waters, drama with geologic rock formations, and drawing you to the climactic edge with ridgewalks and high pass summits.  The trees, shrubs, grasses and animals--deer, chipmunk, squirrels, marmots, bears, are the horn section of the orchestra de High Sierra-- setting the tone and rhythm of life, creating surprises that delight, living in extreme places like high cliffs or low islands, all adding humor and fun to this dramatic song.  And we, Bob and Lee, backpackers, are both audience and conductor."

Awaking after his nap, Bob led the way into the lake, for a necessary swim in deep, cold waters.  I don't know what expression we were expressing in this picture, but it captures the wonder on this moment fully.

The smoke was encroaching on our perfect setting, creating a Mordor-esque mountain horizon beyond the water.  We decided to push on.  The trail curved around Rae Lakes masterfully, exposing new views constantly while we treaded along the edge of the two lakes, on our way to Glen Pass.

Painted Lady jutted towards the sky as we hiked on to Glen.  The path led to a false summit that had us guessing where to go. We eventually saw black dots--people-- on a shaley cliff above. We climbed on.  

We made the pass and then continued along the ridge amid densely gathering smoke.

The smoke was so thick we had to don our cowboy bandannas once again. The nearby mountains couldn't be seen at all.  The Rough Fire was directly west of us now and gaining size.     

The Sun, The Smoke. We saw the burning red evening sun setting through the dense smoke, a sight we had been warned about on day 2. Our lungs hurt as we hiked steadily down and then up towards Forrester Pass. We camped at a forest clearing, made dinner and tried not to breath too much. Hopefully the smoke would clear in the morning so we could make the 3000 foot climb to Forrester. We heard that the skies were clear after Forrester. I hope so. You can't hike many days in this...

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 161 - JMT Purple Lake and Tully Hole

We got our first glimpse of smoke far across the valley as we climbed higher. Up on a ridge after a morning climb, we followed a side trail to an open viewpoint beyond the trees. Selfie:) The smoke, while visible, seemed to give the mountains a blue glow-- like a highlighter to a sketch. You could still see the edges of the mountain ridges, the story of their creation. We could hike in this. But the smoke looked worse farther south. Or it was getting worse as time rolled incessantly forward.  On day two we had ran into a northbound hiker we nicknamed Speedy Steve. Speedy Steve had hiked 18 miles a day through eight consecutive smoke-filled days, including atleast three "very bad days" when he couldn't see the surrounding mountains, the sun glowed a haunting orange and ash accumulated overnight. On the way to Purple Lake we ran into three dirty, beat up, tired north-bound hikers with a similar story. They had to spend one night in an emergency hut at Muir Pass to avoid the...

Day 172 - JMT Mount Whitney

Our day began in silence, at 315am in pursuit of the summit.  We walked carefully, looking for slick, sandy rocks and icy sections--not wanting to fall. Hiking along a cliff edge in total darkness was thrilling, vividly black and white.  By 5am, we had reached the three mile marker and the turnoff up to Whitney summit. We removed the heavy items from our bags and set off towards the summit sunrise. The trail was spectacular, a special creation of this nation, winding from one side of the mountain to the other, going down and around one side before coming up to another, creating anticipation with each turn. Looking back, the sloping ridges caught the early sunset delicately.  As we hiked along the two mile upper trail, the views east would open up for the narrowest of moments.  This opening was my favorite.  14,000 foot cathedrals of nature thrusted towards the heavens at each turn. The summit was almost in sight, the highest peak in the lower 48 states nearly at...

Day 52 - Mesa Verde

The Anasazi first settled on the mesa tops of Mesa Verde in 500 AD, then moved into the cliff dwellings this park is famous for in 1100 AD, then mysteriously abandoned the area entirely in 1300 AD. Like the other tourists, I was interested in seeing the cliff dwellings!  Unfortunately many sites are closed in Colorado until Memorial Day, so I wasn't able to go into the two largest dwellings, Cliff Palace or Long House, settling instead for Balcony House.  Balcony House is a small cliff dwelling built in a defensive posture on an inaccessible cliff. You have to climb a 30 foot ladder to enter the dwelling and then you have to crawl through a 3 foot wide hole and up more ladders to exit. Adventure and history are a nice combo. The ranger taught us about building techniques, spiritual structures and customs, and theories about the Anasazi culture and disappearance (draught or war). Pics.  After the guided tour of Balcony House, I did self-guided tours of a historical museum,...