Skip to main content

Day 169 - JMT Rae Lakes to Glen Pass

The Fin, a rock spire surrounding Rae Lakes, could be seen clearly behind Dollar Lake, as we posed for a picture and almost fell in.  We ran into Alex and Kathleen on the other side of this lake.  They had barely slept--as the cool breeze and damp air off the lake froze their sleeping bags and bodies.  So note to hikers-- don't camp by lakes if it's cold.

Craggy peaks littered the scenery surrounding Rae Lakes.  We stopped for a long, late morning break.  I lent Bob my warm, comfy sleep system and encouraged him to take a nap, which he did.  I ate peanut butter-dipped tortillas and journaled at a lakeside overlook.  Here is what I wrote that day:

"If the High Sierra is an orchestra--the mountains are the wind section--creating stories with peaks and valleys, color with shapely crags over blue waters, drama with geologic rock formations, and drawing you to the climactic edge with ridgewalks and high pass summits.  The trees, shrubs, grasses and animals--deer, chipmunk, squirrels, marmots, bears, are the horn section of the orchestra de High Sierra-- setting the tone and rhythm of life, creating surprises that delight, living in extreme places like high cliffs or low islands, all adding humor and fun to this dramatic song.  And we, Bob and Lee, backpackers, are both audience and conductor."

Awaking after his nap, Bob led the way into the lake, for a necessary swim in deep, cold waters.  I don't know what expression we were expressing in this picture, but it captures the wonder on this moment fully.

The smoke was encroaching on our perfect setting, creating a Mordor-esque mountain horizon beyond the water.  We decided to push on.  The trail curved around Rae Lakes masterfully, exposing new views constantly while we treaded along the edge of the two lakes, on our way to Glen Pass.

Painted Lady jutted towards the sky as we hiked on to Glen.  The path led to a false summit that had us guessing where to go. We eventually saw black dots--people-- on a shaley cliff above. We climbed on.  

We made the pass and then continued along the ridge amid densely gathering smoke.

The smoke was so thick we had to don our cowboy bandannas once again. The nearby mountains couldn't be seen at all.  The Rough Fire was directly west of us now and gaining size.     

The Sun, The Smoke. We saw the burning red evening sun setting through the dense smoke, a sight we had been warned about on day 2. Our lungs hurt as we hiked steadily down and then up towards Forrester Pass. We camped at a forest clearing, made dinner and tried not to breath too much. Hopefully the smoke would clear in the morning so we could make the 3000 foot climb to Forrester. We heard that the skies were clear after Forrester. I hope so. You can't hike many days in this...

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 96 - Banff Cirque Peak

OMG Canada.  Today was my favorite day. The climb to Cirque Peak started with a lovely hike to Helen Lake, climbing quickly at the start but then gently roaming on the backside of the valley, above tree line and with views south to infinity. I made it quickly to the lake then continued on the trail to Dolomite Pass, scrambling on top of the ridge beyond Helen Lake.  My destination : Once on top of the ridge (above my head), I hiked around another lake and up the sandy right side of Cirque Peak, following the route picture from the scramble guide. I eventually made it to a snowbank at the crest of the upper ridge.  I figured walking below the snowbank to the nose would be safer for me with little snow experience, but I saw old steps cut up the near-vertical snowbank and I decided to go for it.  Kicking steps with my right then left foot then propelling my hiking poles right then left deep in the snow above, I inched my way up a snow wall, keeping three solid contact p...

Day 62 - Colorado National Monument

Established as a national monument early in 1911, Colorado NM is known for its high canyon "rim road" and sandstone spires of Monument Canyon.  The canyons of west Colorado are pretty--as they have more green trees and shrubs than the more famous Utah canyons. This gives them a more alive feeling, although the sandstone spires were formed many thousands of years ago by erosion.  Rim Rock road curves up the the top of the canyon cliff, goes through several round tunnels and is lined with scenic viewpoints. The best views were in he Monument Canyon section, and included in sequence, the Coke Ovens, The Kissing Couple (behind my head), and the most famous of all: Independence Monument, the tall spire in pic 3 and viewed from the side in pic 4.  The original promoter and caretaker of the park, John Otto, was the first person to climb Independence Monument and now it's a climbing right of passage. Every July 4 climbers ascend and mount an American flag at the summit. Fun! ...

Day 99 - Mount Robson

The weather was perfect, 80 sunny and clear with a cool breeze for my attempted  40km, 24 mile round trip hike to Berg Lake at Mount Robson Park.  At 7km, I reached the reflective Lake Kinney. The trail was flat and easy up to here and I made quick time.  At 11km I arrived at the Valley of A Thousand Falls, a colorful glacier valley with beautiful waterfalls falling from all corners. The river flowing in form the left was white while the one from the right was blue--interesting.  At 14km White Falls came into view, first of three major falls. This fall cascaded from down the dark rocks and seemed like artwork to me.  At 17km I experienced the most famous waterfall called Emporer Falls, named for its placement below the steep, nearly unclimable  Emporer Face of Mount Robson.  I scrambled below the fall toward small drops of water to rinse off and was promptly drenched by a wind gust.  At 18km I started up the valley toward Berg Lake to breathtaking...