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Day 157 - JMT Yosemite Tuolumne Meadows

Wildfire smoke would be the antagonist for our trip. I learned this on day 1 of our 200-mile hike while on the bus to Yosemite. A father and daughter had to leave their journey halfway through because dense smoke from the 55,000 acre Rough Fire in Kings Canyon was pouring east over the high mountains, making the air poisonous and ruining the views:(

But we knew the first few days would be clear.  A half hour into the four-hour bus ride the smoke shrouded the mountains and the towns. It cleared eventually as we turn up a steep hill to the eastern pass of Yosemite. My first views of Yosemite were as lovely as they had been in my dreams. 

We picked up our wilderness permit, lying about the extra food outside our bear cans (having too much food--heavy food- was another hike antagonist).  Then we were off. A stroll through the woods, past streams and quiet bird calls led us to a long meadow- Tuolumne. I remembered hearing about Tuolumne Meadows while researching the Pacific Crest Trail and here we were. It felt awesome!!

We immediately felt the weight of our packs-- mine around 45 pounds and Bob's maybe 60 pounds. I had invested in ultralight hiking gear but the bear canister, 7+ days of food and extra water added heft. Bob had heavier gear but also an Alaskan toughness to carry him on. The mountain range containing Donahue Pass, tomorrow's exit from Yosemite, neared as we trotted onward. 

And closer, the green gave way to grey. Alpine awaited. 

We climbed halfway up, maybe 1000 feet in elevation and stopped at a wooded stream crossing.  We found a secluded campsite by a waterfall, setup our camping gear (tarp plus bivy sacks) and jumped in the ice cold swimming hole near the falls. Hello Sierra!  We cooked our first meal, Couscius with mixed veggies, nuts and raisins and learned our first lesson--too many veggies. Very full, supremely content and more excited than ever, we camped beneath the stars, awaiting the next wild day. 
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