Days 91 and 92 - Waterton to Calgary

I took a day off hiking today and read by the beautiful seashore of Waterton Lakes. My camp chair was stolen yesterday from my campsite and I felt a bit "off" as a result. The cost of replacing the chair was minor but the unexpected intrusion made me feel distant from home. An engaging murder mystery novel set in civil rights era Mississippi and the beauty of Waterton's lakes eventually won over my foul mood. Here were some photos from this lazy, meandering day.

The next day, I set out north toward Calgary. Dave Neame, a kind Canadian hiker, adventurer and retired technology exec I met in Utah had offered his spare bedroom up for the night. I chatted with Dave about the Canadian Rockies, his mountaineering and backcountry skiing experiences and his travels around the world most of the afternoon before enjoying a Vietnamese dinner and a Top Gear TV special about India together.

Dave's knowledge of hiking and mountain climbing around Canada was top notch and I felt blessed to have this opportunity to learn from him. I've always dreamed of taking the train across Canada, but now armed with expert local knowledge, I could spend two weeks experiencing the best of Canada's scenery- the Canadian Rockies. I read scrambling and ridgewalking guidebooks late into the evening, excited about the final leg of the continental divide half of my big trip but also a bit nervous about the unknown wilderness ahead.

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Day 62 - Colorado National Monument

Established as a national monument early in 1911, Colorado NM is known for its high canyon "rim road" and sandstone spires of Monument Canyon. The canyons of west Colorado are pretty--as they have more green trees and shrubs than the more famous Utah canyons. This gives them a more alive feeling, although the sandstone spires were formed many thousands of years ago by erosion. Rim Rock road curves up the the top of the canyon cliff, goes through several round tunnels and is lined with scenic viewpoints. The best views were in he Monument Canyon section, and included in sequence, the Coke Ovens, The Kissing Couple (behind my head), and the most famous of all: Independence Monument, the tall spire in pic 3 and viewed from the side in pic 4. The original promoter and caretaker of the park, John Otto, was the first person to climb Independence Monument and now it's a climbing right of passage. Every July 4 climbers ascend and mount an American flag at the summit. Fun! ...

Day 82 - Yellowstone to Montana

My alarm sounded at 5:30am, a time early enough for me to arise before someone found me secretly camping. The geyser prediction said Grand at 6:15am so I set out toward it. I ran into geyser gazer Jim there and he said it likely erupted at 4:30-- missed it. Early morning eruptions are hard to predict as someone needed to have seen the previous overnight eruption in order to make a prediction. I walked on toward Artemesia, an unpredictable geyser at the far corner of the basin. I had seen her erupt from a mile away and wanted a closer inspection. The early morning setting was momentous, yet I didn't see a geyser erupt up close until Grand at 10:30. Then Sawmill erupted with its twirling thirty foot action (pic). The only remaining geyser left to experience on my mental list was Beehive up close. With a predicted window of 810 to 1210, I arrived at 1030 and waited until 1pm, before giving up. The sun was hot, I had read the geyser book cover to cover, and while seeing e...

Day 43 - Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef, a national park centered around a 90 mile ancient seabed reef was next on my list. A sensationally scenic three hour drive from Bryce, back through Escalante, and then through a national forest led me to the park. A stop by the visitor center to get the lay of the land and insider info on local free BLM campsites complete, I set out on Chimney Rock trail up the the top of the first reef to get a view. Yes sir!! The weather was ideal for hiking and the views completely blissful, but I was frankly tired today. I set out along the scenic road down the west side of the reef and remember wanting to take a nap-- but still having a sense of urgency to complete the desert portion of my trip-- I pushed on and set out to hike down the Capitol Gorge and Grand Wash canyons. The Capitol Gorge had a "Pioneer Wall" with inscriptions from the early 1900s and the Grand Wash had a nice narrow section with towering canyon cliffs all around. I took a photo of the surrounding reef...

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