Day 70 - Wind Cave and Jewel Cave

Caves!!! After visiting the wonder of the world Carlsbad Caverns one month ago, I had high expectations for Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument.

Wind Cave is named for the howling wind that sometimes exits out of its small natural entrance and is famous for its boxwork, a unique fancy calcite formation. The highlight of this tour was actually the tour guide-- man was he good. Ranger Sam grew up at Wind Cave and his seventy year old father was still a tour guide here. He started the tour with a story about a bison pushing a white pickup truck back ten feet after the pickup truck bumped the bison at a road crossing, told stories about his family and about the families that started wind cave, and also stories about bikers on the cave tours. He was hilarious and a masterful storyteller-- and the boxwork was beautiful.

The next cave, 45 minutes away and possibly connected to wind cave, is the third longest in the world and famous for its crystals. This tour was more geology focused and seemed to cover more distance. You walked through the cave along metal walkways that were sometimes suspended twenty feet above the rock floor (former rock climbers designed the tour route) Pics.

I had originally signed up to do a wild caving, four-hour tour at Jewel Cave two days from now, but they needed another person to sign up and I didn't want to wait two days, so I drove four hours west back to Central Wyoming. Most of Wyoming is a giant oil field so finding a camping spot was hard, but I stumbled upon the Goldeneye Wildlife and Recreation Area about a half hour west of Casper and drove in. A mile-long dirt road led to lovely lake with rundown picnic tables and lots of birds. I decided to camp here as it was BLM land and nicey secluded. The sunset was wonderful.

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Day 161 - JMT Purple Lake and Tully Hole

We got our first glimpse of smoke far across the valley as we climbed higher. Up on a ridge after a morning climb, we followed a side trail to an open viewpoint beyond the trees. Selfie:) The smoke, while visible, seemed to give the mountains a blue glow-- like a highlighter to a sketch. You could still see the edges of the mountain ridges, the story of their creation. We could hike in this. But the smoke looked worse farther south. Or it was getting worse as time rolled incessantly forward. On day two we had ran into a northbound hiker we nicknamed Speedy Steve. Speedy Steve had hiked 18 miles a day through eight consecutive smoke-filled days, including atleast three "very bad days" when he couldn't see the surrounding mountains, the sun glowed a haunting orange and ash accumulated overnight. On the way to Purple Lake we ran into three dirty, beat up, tired north-bound hikers with a similar story. They had to spend one night in an emergency hut at Muir Pass to avoid the...

Day 41 - Escalante Coyote Gulch

This one or two night Coyote Gulch hike was an easy test of my newly learned navigation skills. Anxious to get started I awoke at 545 just as the sun was rising. I followed an obvious landmark, a tall thin spire called Chimney Rock, northwest to Hurricane Wash (a drainage running into Coyote Gulch). After a couple of hours of walking up over and around slick rock, I entered the famous Coyote Gulch. The walls around me raised up, darkened and th water flow increased--like nature hinting at the scenic beauty ahead. The normally crowded Coyote Gulch was fairly empty on this early Thursday morning, giving the canyon a very peaceful and quiet feeling-- fragile almost. Down steam, I ran into the famous Jacob Hamilton Arch and then thirty minutes further-- the Coyote Natural Birdge. Both were beautiful due to their see through the wall character, but both would be overshadowed in my memory by the Stevens Arch tomorrow. Pics. By 1pm, I had hiked for six hours...

Day 42 - Escalante Stevens Arch

The Stevens Arch is so massive that legend says daredevil pilots would fly through it. I was excited to see it! Having napped most of the afternoon, I awoke promptly at 545, packed up my things and hiked down to the Escalante River as the first morning light was pouring into the canyon. Hiking around more waterfalls and ledges and along the stream before anyone else was up was nice. My written directions said to look for sandy hill to my right which led up to my only exit from the canyon-- the Crack-in-the-Wall. I ran into the confluence of the Escalante River, a point which my guidebook noted was passed my exit route, requiring a ten minute backtrack. This was fine though because I had tons of time and wanted to see the Stevens Arch. I crossed the knee-deep Escalante River several times before the Arch came into view. Like a window in the Roman Colloseum, the Arch seemed almost engineered by man in this tall curving canyon wall. I hiked under the arch and couldn't eve...

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