Skip to main content

Day 167 - JMT Mather Pass

Our spirits lifted from weary (after a long hike yesterday) to cheery once we saw the Golden Staircase, an exotic coliseum of white rock.  We pointed towards the direction we had to climb: up the rock.

We were mesmerized by the view as we hiked along this fantastic stretch of trail.  The beauty of earth on display once again.

The trail eventually led us to Upper Palisade Lake.  We had passed two experienced hikers, Scott and Jeff, just below the Golden Staircase.  We heard them catching up to us as we rested at the lake, so we pushed upward towards Mather Pass before they could catch us.  This wilderness seemed best experienced in silence.

As we neared the pass, smoke could be seem coming up the valley from where we had come.  The white stone valley, a chamber of rock, seemed to melt away from view.

Once over the pass, the trail led down to a desolate upper basin strewn with stones.  We marched downward towards the valley with our heads held always up, admiring the misty mountains.

The trail continued down to the valley and then climbed upward towards the next pass, eventually curving by this low lake, near the Bench Lake ranger station.  We found a great campsite under the trees and decided to stop for the evening.

And what a grand decision that was?!  The alpenglow off the cathedral mountain beyond the lake was masterful-- a Sistine Chapel in the Kings Canyon.  We setup our damp gear in the sunlight then I bathed in the lake and got into my full down gear.  I found a 30 degree curving rock and lounged for a spell -- slowly eating trail mix and watching the sun descend in the sky.

The sun finally fell beneath the mountains, the unofficial end to a marvelous day.  We ate dinner as the light turned to dark, and I read John Muir's words about his summer in the Sierra.

"Oh, these vast, calm, measureless mountain days, inciting at once to work and rest! Days in whose light everything seems equally divine, opening a thousand windows to show us God. Nevermore, however weary, should one faint by the way who gains the blessings of one mountain day; whatever his fate, long life, short life, stormy or calm, he is rich forever." - John Muir

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 57 - Rocky Mountain National Park

Ever since I decided to go west for my big trip, I had dreamed of high mountain lakes with snowy peaks arching in every direction, with chilly air making every moment crisp, and with clear skies bringing all into perfect focus-- pure bliss.  Today was the first of many great mountain lake days to come.  Hiking here was far easier here than in the San Juans because the snow was packed down on the trail, but I brought my mini crampons for the downhill. I made it safely past a narrow ridge with narly black peaks across the gorge (pic 1), then up to Mills Lake (pic 2) then Jewel Lake then the Loch (pic 3) then down before the afternoon rain started falling.  I hiked around some lower, more accessible lakes but the sky was now overcast and pictures no good.  I drove up the open portion of the Ridge road amid a very light dusting of snow before heading back to camp for dinner and bedtime. I did manage to capture some fine Elk grazing in a meadows on the return trip and a g...

Day 54 - Great Sand Dunes

I awoke to clear skies, a dry mattress and pillows, a second hot shower and a waffle-filled motel breakfast. I decided to head east to Great Sand Dunes National Park in order to climb 700 foot sand dunes surrounded by snow-covered alpine mountains--a rare site.  Just about every road in Colorado goes over a pretty high mountain pass eventually, and this three and a half hour journey didn't disappoint.  And Great Sand Dunes didn't disappoint either. After securing a dune-side campsite and waiting out a rainstorm, I set out to climb the dunes for a sunset view. Great Sand Dunes is also famous for its Medano Creek wave-like flow and ankle-deep water, making it popular with young kids. I hiked through it and started climbing the dunes, first to a high dune on the east side and over to the next highest dune and then the next highest et until I got to the highest one-/ properly called High Dune. I sat down, setup my phone to capture a time-lapse of the beautiful sunset my eyes were ...

Day 67 - Badlands

Badlands means very difficult and dangerous to travel through-- Badlands lived up to this name.  I began my eight mile loop hike by climbing up a steep canyon side to the mesa wall on top. From here I travelled east towards the popular window, door and notch trails via a wet, muddy and slippery Medicine Root trail that left me covered in mud up to my knees.  Of the popular trails the notch was my favorite because it involved a wooden ladder climb and then a hill scramble past crumbling rock up to a six foot "notch" step that required a almost-rock climbing move to ascend.  The views up at the top cliff were sensational. Even more fun, two girls from New York-driving to Portland and a young couple saw me up there and followed the path up-- with a bit of my help at the notch. I love helping people get a bit beyond their comfort zone. We all enjoyed the view then descended safely to find that this notch was not actually the trail but a side canyon-- haha.  I then hiked ...