Day 164 - JMT Seldon Pass to Muir Trail Ranch

The moon shined bright this morning, adding fantasy to the delightful morning sun's glow.

The reflection of the far sand-like mountains shone wonderfully off Marie Lake's mirror surface. We struck a pose. At the top of Seldon Pass we ran into a group of fifteen Korean hikers, of all ages. As we left the pass and descended down the other side, the Korean group held up their hiking poles to make a wedding tunnel for Bob and I to walk under! How funny?!

This playfulness was cut short at Heart Lake. Bob stepped up on a phonebooth-sized boulder on the side of the trail in order to chat with another hiker below. The boulder gave way under Bob's weight and fell fifty feet to the lake shore. Luckily Bob fell back, weighed by his huge pack, and stuck the landing, landing with both feet and two trekking poles maybe ten feet below. A mild wrist pain was his only injury.

The lake views continued in their excellence as we hiked on. Bob wrapped his wrist with a wet bandanna and continued marching without complaint; and we laughed at our/his luck: that he didn't break his leg was a miracle.

We arrived at midday to Muir Trail Ranch, a resort and resupply station, the last resupply for 120 miles. We organized the contents of our two buckets and counted out one dinner and one breakfast and 2000 calories of snacks per day for eight days. We raided the hiker buckets (unused supplies) for better trail mix, moleskin and tasty protein bars. Friendly hikers like Bellingham Dude, Charleston Couple and Travelin Mike entertained us with stories and surprised us with free food and supplies.

And then we mounted our crazy heavy packs and set off 1.5 miles down trail to a San Joaquin River-side camp. Part Two of our voyage, the famous Kings Canyon-Sequoia section, begins tomorrow!

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Day 168 - JMT Pinchot Pass

The mountains appeared like sand dunes in the soft early light. We drank our coffee, packed up our gear and set off up the hill toward Pinchot Pass. Not a mile up the trail, we encountered another sensational High Sierra lake, Lake Marjorie, and the peaceful reflections off the lake's surface. Mountains of white and red and grey and black surrounded us-- all surfaces seemingly from another planet, but welcoming us this morning on Earth. Jeff and Steve and a lady named Tara joined us at the picturesque summit of Pinchot Pass. We remained there for a complete hour, enjoying stories of hiking triumph and Jeff's difficult but rewarding experiences as a search and rescue captain. Reluctant to leave the 12,000 foot pass, but begged forward by the slowly descending trail, we hiked on. The wonderful landscape in the background, with layers of blues, and browns and whites, appeared like an Ansel Adams masterpiece, and the trail a magical doorway to its frame. The sce

Day 171 - JMT Guitar Lake

Wow, was it cold this morning. After waking up and eating breakfast, we packed up quickly and found this scenic sunspot to warm our bones. We had a short eight mile hike to Guitar Lake today, the last viable campsite before the five mile hike to the 14,505 foot-high Mount Whitney summit. We stopped at this lovely meadow and looked for bears. We only saw deer but were able to enjoy the incredible peace of the far mountain range. Steady hiker traffic, the most of the entire trip, including one group of twelve elder hikers, passed us as we rested, and jumped! Views of Mount Whitney finally came into view at Timberline Lake, a quaint lake where camping was unfortunately forbidden. We passed a group of twenty Taiwanese hikers. The summit of Mount Whitney looked heavily defended when viewed from below. We were going to wake up tomorrow at 230am and hike up to the summit for sunrise-on-the-top-of-the-world*. The thought of this dark task was a bit foreboding. We made it to Guitar Lake by

Day 150 - Big Sur Hearst Castle

Big Sur coastline continues in its beauty. Elephant seals practice sparring. They make a snore-like belly belch sound while sparring and then after ten seconds later lie back down to snooze on the sand. The Hearst Castle is an incredibly luxurious complex on top of a high hill overlooking the ocean and coastal mountains. The feel was Mediterranean, royal and magical. The outdoor pool had a Roman feel-- on a hill, in California. Strangely awesome. But the indoor pool was the tops-- like a Turkish kings dream moment come to life. I found a beautiful campground close to the castle and stopped for the night.

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