Day 79 - Yellowstone Midway And West

Our first stop this morning was to the Midway Geyser basin, site of the famous Grand Prismatic, the largest hot spring in the world. I had remembered this place from our drive in for its bright orange drainage channels falling into the nearby river. The morning was foggy and the pools were too misty to see the depth of the major pools, but the setting was dramatic.

A few miles up the road we saw a huge Bison (correct name for a Buffalo) on a side road. We drove in, only a few feet from the mean-looking Bison, enjoying the uniqueness of this animal, before driving through the Great Fountain geyser basin and back out to the main road. A few miles later we came across a herd of hundreds of Bison as they were grazing and crossing the road. As we passed slowly a Bison snorted at me or maybe at the biker crossing in the other lane.

Arriving in West Yellowstone, a town just outside the west gate, we had a Mexican lunch and then drove north through Montana to Earthquake Lake, a lake formed by a landslide from a 1959 7.3 Richter scale earthquake that took 20 campers lives. Trees had already began to grow on the massive landslide hill, an example of the natural processes-- earthquakes, floods, et. -- that formed this great western mountain scenery over the millennia. The trees in the lake and the landslide in the distance can be seen in the picture below. And a reinactment of the effect of 100-mile per hour winds after a landslide.

We drove back through pretty Montana and Idaho countryside before settling into our hotel room for a relaxing quiet evening.

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Day 171 - JMT Guitar Lake

Wow, was it cold this morning. After waking up and eating breakfast, we packed up quickly and found this scenic sunspot to warm our bones. We had a short eight mile hike to Guitar Lake today, the last viable campsite before the five mile hike to the 14,505 foot-high Mount Whitney summit. We stopped at this lovely meadow and looked for bears. We only saw deer but were able to enjoy the incredible peace of the far mountain range. Steady hiker traffic, the most of the entire trip, including one group of twelve elder hikers, passed us as we rested, and jumped! Views of Mount Whitney finally came into view at Timberline Lake, a quaint lake where camping was unfortunately forbidden. We passed a group of twenty Taiwanese hikers. The summit of Mount Whitney looked heavily defended when viewed from below. We were going to wake up tomorrow at 230am and hike up to the summit for sunrise-on-the-top-of-the-world*. The thought of this dark task was a bit foreboding. We made it to Guitar Lake by

Day 172 - JMT Mount Whitney

Our day began in silence, at 315am in pursuit of the summit. We walked carefully, looking for slick, sandy rocks and icy sections--not wanting to fall. Hiking along a cliff edge in total darkness was thrilling, vividly black and white. By 5am, we had reached the three mile marker and the turnoff up to Whitney summit. We removed the heavy items from our bags and set off towards the summit sunrise. The trail was spectacular, a special creation of this nation, winding from one side of the mountain to the other, going down and around one side before coming up to another, creating anticipation with each turn. Looking back, the sloping ridges caught the early sunset delicately. As we hiked along the two mile upper trail, the views east would open up for the narrowest of moments. This opening was my favorite. 14,000 foot cathedrals of nature thrusted towards the heavens at each turn. The summit was almost in sight, the highest peak in the lower 48 states nearly attained, the end of our 2

Day 170 - JMT Forrester Pass

The mountains had a surreal glow this morning as we climbed up towards the 13,200 foot high Forrester Pass. One of the wonderful things about the mountains is that they change appearance as the sun changes height, creating a movie-like experience as you walk. I felt so free and happy this morning--just in love with this light. After sixty minutes of walking, we stopped in the first sunny spot we could find to thaw out and rest. Another hiker came bustling up the trail behind us and stopped at the sunspot to shed a layer of clothing. Sly was a Canadian hiker, just turned 40, who seemed happy to see us. We struck up a conversation about travels and when we pushed off Sly asked if he could join us. We said yes of course. We hiked quickly up the trail, reaching a high plateau with epic alpine views. Selfie time! We skirted around a high alpine lake and then went up a ridge line ever further higher. We were at 12,000+ feet now and the world began to look small yet vast.

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