Skip to main content

Day 97 - Banff to Jasper

Parker Ridge is the northernmost trail in Banff Park and the views of the Saskatchewan Glacier are up close and personal. The pre global warming--human Industrial Age length of the glacier is clearly visible in grey. I sat and pondered life-nature-being-joy. 


After hiking along Parker Ridge north toward Mount Athabasca, I drove up the road a bit to the Wilcox Pass trail, one of the famous Jasper Park trails. Like the Helen Lake trail yesterday, you climb to the hidden valley and are quickly greeted with vistas of the icy mountains, glaciers, Icefields and green-blue valleys. The Columbia Icefield, a high alpine valley set between a half dozen towering mountains and filled with ice 600 feet thick in spots, was the star of the vista. 


I hiked to Wilcox Pass and then turned left toward the Icefield and famous Athabasca Glacier, where you can ride a special truck up and walk on the glacier. Once at the far ridge, I hiked toward Mount Wilcox, enjoying the views and peace of this wonderful place. I followed the ridge as it climbed up the mountain. Eventually I had to put my hiking poles away and scramble up the sticky rock spires as the ridge narrowed, wind picked up, and snowbanks got closer. Another hiker, the man in red, climbed up behind me, eventually passing me on a lower route as I breaked for a snack. His presence was comforting so I pushed on higher, eventually pulling myself up a narrow shute to a high verticals spite summit. The route was pretty basic and safe, the rock sticky and solid, but climbing at such altitude with snowy peaks all around made me feel alive--focused in, present, on. 


The actual summit was one or two spires up, but I felt accomplished and satisfied with the point I reached.  The  guidebook said the cross between the north and south peaks were dangerous and I wasn't sure exactly which high peaks I was looking at. I decided to climb down. 

On the way down, I saw the man in red making what looked like a very dangerous cross below toward a vertical ridge and his obvious target, the true summit. When he paused at a safe spot, I called out to see if he was okay. He said he was. He asked about my high route and I said it was safe, but I didn't try for the summit. He continued on. See him here in red crossing the snow in bottom left. 


He made it to the ridge and disappeared beyond view.  After reaching a safe spot on my down-climb, I spotted him again returning back across the dangerous crossing. I waited for him to make it across for fifteen minutes, in case he needed help. He made it and I climbed down, happy to be safely down from danger. 


On the return, I must have looked back toward Mount Wilcox twenty times.  Something in me wishes I had pushed on further to the summit. Why did I stop?  How far up was I?  Which snowfield was the red man crossing?  These must be the musings of the mountaineer. 


Back in the van, I continued my ritual of driving the scenic road north to the start of tomorrow's climb. Tonight's drive took me by the "Endless Chain Ridge" and into a campground just outside Jasper town, and the northern edge of my road trip journey. 



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 171 - JMT Guitar Lake

Wow, was it cold this morning. After waking up and eating breakfast, we packed up quickly and found this scenic sunspot to warm our bones. We had a short eight mile hike to Guitar Lake today,  the last viable campsite before the five mile hike to the 14,505 foot-high Mount Whitney summit.  We stopped at this lovely meadow and looked for bears. We only saw deer but were able to enjoy the incredible peace of the far mountain range. Steady hiker traffic, the most of the entire trip, including one group of twelve elder hikers, passed us as we rested, and jumped! Views of Mount Whitney finally came into view at Timberline Lake, a quaint lake where camping was unfortunately forbidden. We passed a group of twenty Taiwanese hikers.  The summit of Mount Whitney looked heavily defended when viewed from below. We were going to wake up tomorrow at 230am and hike up to the summit for sunrise-on-the-top-of-the-world*. The thought of this dark task was a bit foreboding.  We made it to Guitar Lake by

Day 172 - JMT Mount Whitney

Our day began in silence, at 315am in pursuit of the summit.  We walked carefully, looking for slick, sandy rocks and icy sections--not wanting to fall. Hiking along a cliff edge in total darkness was thrilling, vividly black and white.  By 5am, we had reached the three mile marker and the turnoff up to Whitney summit. We removed the heavy items from our bags and set off towards the summit sunrise. The trail was spectacular, a special creation of this nation, winding from one side of the mountain to the other, going down and around one side before coming up to another, creating anticipation with each turn. Looking back, the sloping ridges caught the early sunset delicately.  As we hiked along the two mile upper trail, the views east would open up for the narrowest of moments.  This opening was my favorite.  14,000 foot cathedrals of nature thrusted towards the heavens at each turn. The summit was almost in sight, the highest peak in the lower 48 states nearly attained, the end of our 2

Day 170 - JMT Forrester Pass

The mountains had a surreal glow this morning as we climbed up towards the 13,200 foot high Forrester Pass.  One of the wonderful things about the mountains is that they change appearance as the sun changes height, creating a movie-like experience as you walk. I felt so free and happy this morning--just in love with this light.  After sixty minutes of walking, we stopped in the first sunny spot we could find to thaw out and rest. Another hiker came bustling up the trail behind us and stopped at the sunspot to shed a layer of clothing. Sly was a Canadian hiker, just turned 40, who seemed happy to see us. We struck up a conversation about travels and when we pushed off Sly asked if he could join us. We said yes of course. We hiked quickly up the trail, reaching a high plateau with epic alpine views. Selfie time! We skirted around a high alpine lake and then went up a ridge line ever further higher. We were at 12,000+ feet now and the world began to look small yet vast.