Skip to main content

Day 21 - Grand Canyon Rim to River

All the signs at Grand Canyon warn you not to hike down to the river and back in one day , and I wasn't going to attempt it, in fact I was going to leave GC early and not hike down into the canyon at all. Then I read Bills suggestion of the South Kaibab trail and decided I should just go for it. The weather was ideal, this is the perfect time of year, 60s on the rim and 70s in the canyon and fewer tourists to degrade the beauty. 

Starting down the trail later than hoped at 8am, I basically ran down the canyon, passing folks left and right. Halfway down I slowed up as my knees began to cry. My hiking poles helped lessen the beating but the banging of knees on the way down was the hardest part of the hike for me-- the up was easier as I've been training and hiking for a while now. But Bill did not lie about the beauty of the South Kaibab. The views were expansive and the trail easy to hike despite being down down down. 




If I wasn't feeing strong and my progress slow I was going to hike along the flat Tonto trail (about 2/3 way down) and then go back up the south Kaibab. But I was feeling great and making super time so I went with plan B, hike all the way down to the river, along the river trail for 1.5 miles and then back up the bright angel trail. Bright angel had a water source and ranger station 1/3 the way up so this was the safest full route. I'm glad I made this decision as the south Kaibab trail from the Tonto plateau to the river was magnificent. This picture of me at the river shows some of the ancient dark rock that dominates the last 1500 feet to the water. This rock is far more dense than the upper 3000 feet so the canyon is steeper and sterner. 


I started going up at 12 noon and made good time up to the Ranger station 1/3 of the way up and then made the final steep push to the top along switchback after switchback. I stopped every 30 minutes for water and a one minute break and every two hours for food and a ten minute break. I finished the journey in 16 miles in 8.5 hours and felt tired in the knees but fine. This photo captures some of the trail up on Bright Angel. 

I now head south back to the Phoenix and Tucson area for preparation for my next canyon experience: the world class and not well known Aravaipa Canyon. 50 people are allowed in every day and I have a permit for Monday Tuesday and Wednesday!  Yay. 


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Day 41 - Escalante Coyote Gulch

This one or two night Coyote Gulch hike was an easy test of my newly learned navigation skills.  Anxious to get started I awoke at 545 just as the sun was rising.  I followed an obvious landmark, a tall thin spire called Chimney Rock, northwest to Hurricane Wash (a drainage running into Coyote Gulch).  After a couple of hours of walking up over and around slick rock, I entered the famous Coyote Gulch.  The walls around me raised up, darkened and th water flow increased--like nature hinting at the scenic beauty ahead.  The normally crowded Coyote Gulch was fairly empty on this early Thursday morning, giving the canyon a very peaceful and quiet feeling-- fragile almost. Down steam, I ran into the famous Jacob Hamilton Arch and then thirty minutes further-- the Coyote Natural Birdge. Both were beautiful due to their see through the wall character, but both would be overshadowed in my memory by the Stevens Arch tomorrow. Pics.  By 1pm, I had hiked for six hours...

Day 62 - Colorado National Monument

Established as a national monument early in 1911, Colorado NM is known for its high canyon "rim road" and sandstone spires of Monument Canyon.  The canyons of west Colorado are pretty--as they have more green trees and shrubs than the more famous Utah canyons. This gives them a more alive feeling, although the sandstone spires were formed many thousands of years ago by erosion.  Rim Rock road curves up the the top of the canyon cliff, goes through several round tunnels and is lined with scenic viewpoints. The best views were in he Monument Canyon section, and included in sequence, the Coke Ovens, The Kissing Couple (behind my head), and the most famous of all: Independence Monument, the tall spire in pic 3 and viewed from the side in pic 4.  The original promoter and caretaker of the park, John Otto, was the first person to climb Independence Monument and now it's a climbing right of passage. Every July 4 climbers ascend and mount an American flag at the summit. Fun! ...

Day 57 - Rocky Mountain National Park

Ever since I decided to go west for my big trip, I had dreamed of high mountain lakes with snowy peaks arching in every direction, with chilly air making every moment crisp, and with clear skies bringing all into perfect focus-- pure bliss.  Today was the first of many great mountain lake days to come.  Hiking here was far easier here than in the San Juans because the snow was packed down on the trail, but I brought my mini crampons for the downhill. I made it safely past a narrow ridge with narly black peaks across the gorge (pic 1), then up to Mills Lake (pic 2) then Jewel Lake then the Loch (pic 3) then down before the afternoon rain started falling.  I hiked around some lower, more accessible lakes but the sky was now overcast and pictures no good.  I drove up the open portion of the Ridge road amid a very light dusting of snow before heading back to camp for dinner and bedtime. I did manage to capture some fine Elk grazing in a meadows on the return trip and a g...