Day 68 - Badlands to Mount Rushmore to Black Hills

Today was a great, long day-- starting at the seldom-visited South unit of Badlands, heading to patriotic memorial Mount Rushmore and then to the scenic Black Hills.

A young Park Ranger said that Sheep Mountain Table was his favorite hike at Badlands, so I drove south. He also said the road could be impassable after heavy rains but I was able to travel four miles up to the mesa "table" top before the going got rough. I parked and walked along the dirt road amid vast grassfields and eventually leading to the edge of the mesa and lovely views of the canyons below. These white badland canyons reminded me of Bryce Canyon hoodoos. The road looped around and I walked for several hours without seeing another person-- my own private park.

Mount Rushmore was one of those places I had low expectations for given its tourist popularity-- but wow, I loved it! The memorial does a great job presenting the history of the site: 15 years in the making, 90% of the carving done by dynamite and great presidential ideals. The faces seem to look back at you. 3 million visitors a year make this a huge attraction and countless tourist attractions surround the memorial, making this Black Hills area a family-vacation, road trip hotspot.

High on the Black Hills highlight list is the Sylvan Lake-Mount Harney area of Custer State Park. I drove here late in the afternoon just as heavy rains were ending and the sky was brightening. The rock spires radiated off the water and the Black Hills vistas rolled effortlessly into the horizon. After a hike around the lake and hills, I drove along the 14-mile Needles highway, a narrow winding road built in 1922 and carving through "cathedral spires" and 8 foot wide tunnels. I then drove south through game land areas past Buffalo and Pronghorn Antelope before arriving at a secluded boondocking campsite outside Wind Cave National Park.

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Day 168 - JMT Pinchot Pass

The mountains appeared like sand dunes in the soft early light. We drank our coffee, packed up our gear and set off up the hill toward Pinchot Pass. Not a mile up the trail, we encountered another sensational High Sierra lake, Lake Marjorie, and the peaceful reflections off the lake's surface. Mountains of white and red and grey and black surrounded us-- all surfaces seemingly from another planet, but welcoming us this morning on Earth. Jeff and Steve and a lady named Tara joined us at the picturesque summit of Pinchot Pass. We remained there for a complete hour, enjoying stories of hiking triumph and Jeff's difficult but rewarding experiences as a search and rescue captain. Reluctant to leave the 12,000 foot pass, but begged forward by the slowly descending trail, we hiked on. The wonderful landscape in the background, with layers of blues, and browns and whites, appeared like an Ansel Adams masterpiece, and the trail a magical doorway to its frame. The sce

Day 171 - JMT Guitar Lake

Wow, was it cold this morning. After waking up and eating breakfast, we packed up quickly and found this scenic sunspot to warm our bones. We had a short eight mile hike to Guitar Lake today, the last viable campsite before the five mile hike to the 14,505 foot-high Mount Whitney summit. We stopped at this lovely meadow and looked for bears. We only saw deer but were able to enjoy the incredible peace of the far mountain range. Steady hiker traffic, the most of the entire trip, including one group of twelve elder hikers, passed us as we rested, and jumped! Views of Mount Whitney finally came into view at Timberline Lake, a quaint lake where camping was unfortunately forbidden. We passed a group of twenty Taiwanese hikers. The summit of Mount Whitney looked heavily defended when viewed from below. We were going to wake up tomorrow at 230am and hike up to the summit for sunrise-on-the-top-of-the-world*. The thought of this dark task was a bit foreboding. We made it to Guitar Lake by

Day 150 - Big Sur Hearst Castle

Big Sur coastline continues in its beauty. Elephant seals practice sparring. They make a snore-like belly belch sound while sparring and then after ten seconds later lie back down to snooze on the sand. The Hearst Castle is an incredibly luxurious complex on top of a high hill overlooking the ocean and coastal mountains. The feel was Mediterranean, royal and magical. The outdoor pool had a Roman feel-- on a hill, in California. Strangely awesome. But the indoor pool was the tops-- like a Turkish kings dream moment come to life. I found a beautiful campground close to the castle and stopped for the night.

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